Now that's how you protest!

Avenida Corrientes

Buenos Aires

You would at first glance think it had snowed.

Masses of sheets of white A6 size paper flakes.

This is the aftermath of a demonstration. These people really know how to protest! I'm in love with their notions of Democracy. It's loud and full of enthusiasm. Usually a dozen or so people with drums, trumpets, whistles and cymbals beating out a rousing tune, lots of people singing, waving flags and banners. I've joined in on nearly half a dozen now, making sure i'm hopefully not barracking for the opposition...or the conservatives...

This is a normal occupation for the masses. Like eating, sleeping and breathing. If the people don't like what the President says on a TV broadcast, they take to the streets with their pots and spoons and bash out some sort of tune. "The caceroles" (casserole dishes). Thrilling. There was a huge protest last Friday, when tens of thousands took to the streets and Plaza de Mayo to protest new laws limiting the buying of US dollars for holidays and savings.

Ground Floor

Avenida Teodora Garcia

Belgrano

Buenos Aires

Planta Baja.

Ground floor, looking into the little lift that takes me up to the second floor where i live in the apartment with Beba.

A nice spot with wide streets and lots of trees.

I went to Colonia, Uruguay on Friday.

Time to renew my tourist visa.

Pleased to say they let me out and back in again!

Another 90 days up my sleeve.

Uruguay is an hour trip across the Rio de la Plata, a vast sepia coloured river that seems as big as an ocean.

Colonia was divine, the weather was warm, mosquitoes friendly, the food horribly expensive. (bit of a tourist trap)

I hadn't realised how tranquil it was wandering the streets until i got back to Buenos Aires and walked out of the Port onto one of the main hurtling avenues. Was a bit of a shock after the calm of Colonia. Next time i will go for the three hour trip to Montevideo, and try that one on for size.

The Most Glamourous Bookstore in the World

Avenida Santa Fe, Palermo

Buenos Aires.

Set in an old theatre, this bookstore is housed in a glorious and historic building in the heart of one of the trendy suburbs. Blew me away. I saw a program about it a couple of years ago on late night BBC World, and was thrilled to eventually find it.

 A cafe at the back, or should i say, on stage, and five floors full of books, c.d's. DVDs on everything and anything.

I noticed lots of people like me with their cameras in hand taking pot shots at the place.

Outside, as i was taking more pics, an old guy came up to me and spoke in English and Spanish, telling me with obvious pride that the bookstore was one of the most beautiful in all of Latin America.

extreme knitting

Palermo Soho, Buenos Aires.

Saw this fabulous example of guerrilla knitting as i was intent on finding the Arabian bakery in this neighbourhood.

It belonged to the fashion store directly in front of it.

I almost felt like taking up knitting...if i didn't find it so Slow and Time Consuming. Could knit full body suits for cats and dogs. Or maybe even a horse...

I like wandering around sans map, you get to discover all sorts of things, like the fabulous Feria Artesanal; the artist fair/market. I spied all sorts of things to bring back as samples and memories.

I found the bakery and large pots of Humus and Tabbouleh. I have a craving for vegemite.

The flower sellers

Along with the Newspaper stalls are the

 Flower sellers.

 Again at least one per block, and more in downtown. They are a delight to walk past.

 Makes your eyes giddy with colour. 

Some even advertise 24hour purchasing.

Last week i walked passed a stall featuring

 freesias con aroma....

with smell!

It is starting to get warmer here, and

 small buds of spring are forming on the trees. 

Spring,according to the locals,

 is one of the nicest times in the city.

Diarios y Revistas

This is where you buy your newspapers and magazines...Diarios y Revistas.

They are everywhere, at least one per block, and in downtown, maybe more. Painted red or green (if you can see the colour for the magazines), some are more grand than others; selling postcards, badges or posters featuring maps of Argentina, South Ameircia, Tango moves or even images of cattle sectioned into edible cuts.

Calle 25 de Mayo, Buenos Aires

Way up on lucky number 13th floor is the Institute Dublin....

the office and rooms of the English Language Institute i work for.

i have two classes a week there, the rest are scattered within 15-20minute walking distance around the central business district.

I get to see lots of the city in my wanderings, use my map less and less, begining to know the buses i need to take to get to other places, starting to have favourite local shops for fruit, bakeries and coffee shops. Really, i think i'm starting to feel like a local.

Have to go to Uruguay next week, my 90 day visa is nearly up. How's that. Three months.!

Cambio, Cambio....

Casa de Cambio on the pedestrian street Lavalle,

downtown Buenos Aires.

Lurking around the Microcentro (downtown) pedestrian walkways are the money changers. The unofficial houses of change. Last week, in one block i counted nine.

Cambio, cambio, is their call (exchange), the words that link them all. That and their cellphones and cigarettes. 'Dollares y reals' ...American into Pesos, and the other way around i guess. They are the Blue-market, the informal foreign currency exchangers. No uniform, no office space...so low overheads, apparently offering a better bang for your buck.

Another one of the things in this city that delight.

who's up for a walk?

The Dog Walkers

They are the people who take the beloved pets of busy Portenos for their daily walk.

I love seeing them from the bus windows, swimming in a sea of fur in a range of hues. Fifteen has been the greatest number i have counted so far. Tied like a macrame knot to a central lead. I look at them slightly enviously as i lug my 5kg bag of teaching goodies around the streets, and think that that would be a nice kind of job....maybe i could teach them English at the same time...?

It's a mess, no matter what country....

This is my sunny room in the casa of Beba, my amazing landlady. She just turned 85 yesterday and has the youth and vigor of a much younger woman. She has welcomed me into her home, someone she doesn't know, doesn't speak a word of English, so we have some funny Spanglish conversations and mime. Her theatrics are pretty good. We get on like a house on fire!

On the 20th of this month we are going to her Club to listen (i think that's what we are doing...) to tango music and singers. I'm looking forward to it. Think she also has babushka designs...she is busy talking about el hombres for me....i guess that is the meaning behind her gestures and suggestive eyebrow moves.