A dictionary of the underworld...

Close up of a gate decoration at Recoleta Cementario,
Buenos Aires.

Una diccionario del hampa; en la portrada especifica que contiene el vocabulario de ladrones, criminales, bandidos, pordioeros, vagabundos, reos-el inframundo comercial, el trafico de drogas - la trata de blancas - rufianesy malandras.

A dictionary of the underworld; being the vocabulary of crooks, criminals, racketeers, beggars and tramps. convicts, the commercial underworld, the drug traffic - the white slave traffic - SPIVS.

So read the curious title of a 1961 book housed under glass at the Biblioteca Nacional. The National Library. There were a number of donated books from Jorge Luis Borges; Argentina's number one literary son, complete with neat spider like notations in his handwriting on interesting bits in the books.
Next door and just down the road at the sister spot was the Museo del Libro y de la Lengua (the gallery of books and language) that had a marvelous exhibition of works from a famous printer in the 50's. I am going to need a crate to post all my ephemera collection home....

Barrio La Boca and the Eloisa Cartonera

Another image of La Boca neighborhood. Buenos Aires.

Second time lucky....Spent a fabulous afternoon on Wednesday with the Eloisa Cartonera!! Yay, they were open, i had my plea for volunteer work written in Spanish and checked by one of the teachers at work and started talking, and Alejandro said try English....and i was so ready with my small Spanish request...anyway, I was in. I met Ricardo who was sharing his birthday cake with everyone, Carmen, and about three others who wandered passed and popped in.
I was so happy. Kept pinching myself to make sure i wasn't dreaming.
They are a small, grass roots publishing group. Cooperativa editorial; check out their website and colourful books. They publish Latin American writers and poets on an old printing press, staple them into cardboard covers that they buy off the cardboard pickers and sell the books at political rallies and fiestas etc.
So while munching on birthday cake and sipping mate tea with them all, i painted eight covers for their books, and watched all the excitement going on. Their premises are beside the Boca Stadium, and a big match was to be played that night. The Boca juniors and some other team. There was riot police with flak jackets, guns and big sticks, blue barricades around the streets, a heavy police escort with sirens blaring as the rival team in a big bus were escorted to the venue. It was all terribly exciting!
 I was given big hugs from them when i left, and wandered down to the bus stop with paint over my fingers and a big grin on my face. This is the life eh.

Musing on the Subte...

The corner of Avenida 9 de Julio and Corrientes.

The Subte, or Subway. The Buenos Aires underground. While not a fan of traveling like a mole underground, it has considerably lessened my commute to work time. 20-25 minutes compared to 1 1/2 hours. 12 stations from Catedral in Plaza de Mayo (downtown) to Olleros - my stop - at Belgrano. Even at the horrible hour of 7am it is full. So we stand and sway our way to the center of the city. But, on the way home, if i catch the train from the first station at Catedral, it's like musical chairs with intent. The train pulls in, totally empty, the crowd on the platform ready to pounce as soon as the doors open. I have learned to leap in the doors and claim a seat for those 12 stops until home. It's survival of the quickest!

The Subte strike

  The Subway Strike....10 days of action packed sardine adventure. I'm still not sure of the reasons, but solidarity to the workers! So it was onto the Collectivo (bus) 152 from Belgrano (my suburb/barrio) to Microcentro (downtown). Distance traveled - about 6 1/2 kilometres. Time taken - about 1 1/2 hours. Standing. wedged in and tightly packed amongst at least 60 people. You wouldn't want to corner in a hurry. Twice a day. The time of day did not seem to matter, or diminish the population of the bus. I had some great Spanglish conversations with random strangers within kissing distance. It was a bad time to be wearing my winter coat and having hot flushes!! This is the line i take - D - to home.

si necessitas dos para tango...

La Boca, Buenos Aires.

I takes two to Tango, but it also takes the Bandonean (or two) and the Violin, the Cello and the Guitar...and some old guys in hats with a microphone.

I've heard some hauntingly beautiful music that makes my hair stand on end, a lot from buskers on the streets, and the energy from these guys was no exception.

This group was performing at one of the many tourist type restaurants in La Boca that feature Tango shows to accompany lunch or dinner. They were quite deliriously fabulous, and judging by their repartee between songs, have enjoyed playing together for a long long time.

P.S. Spell check wants to change Bandonean into abandon...

and it is quite like that!

Caminita, La Boca

La Boca, Buenos Aires.

The old port area of Capital Federal, settled by the Italians who covered all the walls with riotous colour and bought Tango to the streets.

It is a crush of locals, artists, musicians, tourists and Tango dancers in the heaving streets. 

La Boca is also famous for the Boca Juniors, one of the famous futbol teams in this neck of the woods.

Found!

The Eloisa Cartonera.

La Boca,

 Buenos Aires.

When i saw their books at Pam's and on their web page, and wrote down their address, well, I didn't believe it until i was standing at the front of their closed roller doors.

 I really was there.

 Here.

 Usted esta aqui.

You are here.

 I really was. Truly.